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The chaos theory of Mongolia

I returned to Mongolia 15 years ago after an absence of 13 years, save for the occasional 2-week leave from work, and that time I spent a semester and a half at a local university drinking endless cups of brown, watery 150 Tugrik instant MaCcoffee at the cafĂ© strangely, or perhaps egotistically, named "In my memory", writing the first and so far the only book that got us into trouble with the local intelligence who apparently had little else to do than to pore through the ramblings of teenagers to catch the tell-tale signs of drug dealery. But I digress. When you visit a country for a short period, be it home or not, you hardly have time to immerse yourself in the spirit of the country and the city and feel the nitty gritty and dirty shiny of it all. So after 13 years, it took me a while to readjust and finally understand what the hometown of my childhood had become.  The most striking, ubiquitous, and inescapable feature was and still, unfortunately, is the traffic. In 2008,...

Throat-Singing: Genghis Blues

According to news.mn, the International Throat-Singing Competition will be held in Tuva during 25-28 July, 2008. I couldn't find any other information online regarding this competition, which deserves its own website. The Tuvans, and in particular, the Khun-Khuur-Tu ensemble, the great throat-singer Kongar-Ool Ondar, have done much to promote this Central-Asian art of throat / khuumii singing. Tuva and Mongolian traditions are nearly identical, except for the language. Tuvans speak Turkic, which is probably a result of the Golden Horde and their extensive use of Turkish soldiers.

There is a great documentary called "Genghis Blues" about the journey of the late Paul Pena, a blind American blues musician of Cape Verdean ancestry, to Tuva. He learnt throat-singing by listening to recordings and practicing for 2 years. When Kongar-Ool Ondar was in the US for a performance, Paul Pena attended his performance and afterwards, met Kongar-Ool backstage to demonstrate the kargyraa-style (kharkhiraa, or growling in Mongolian) khoomii he had learnt on his own. Kongar-Ool was so impressed by Paul Pena that he invited him to participate in the Khoomii / Throat-singing competition in Tuva. Paul Pena accepted, went and won in the kargyraa-style. The soundtrack of the documentary is highly recommended. The mixture of Paul Pena's Delta blues guitar, Cape Verdean morna sung in Portuguese Creole and Tuvan throat-singing is nothing short of amazing. Here are a couple of videos:



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