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The chaos theory of Mongolia

I returned to Mongolia 15 years ago after an absence of 13 years, save for the occasional 2-week leave from work, and that time I spent a semester and a half at a local university drinking endless cups of brown, watery 150 Tugrik instant MaCcoffee at the cafĂ© strangely, or perhaps egotistically, named "In my memory", writing the first and so far the only book that got us into trouble with the local intelligence who apparently had little else to do than to pore through the ramblings of teenagers to catch the tell-tale signs of drug dealery. But I digress. When you visit a country for a short period, be it home or not, you hardly have time to immerse yourself in the spirit of the country and the city and feel the nitty gritty and dirty shiny of it all. So after 13 years, it took me a while to readjust and finally understand what the hometown of my childhood had become.  The most striking, ubiquitous, and inescapable feature was and still, unfortunately, is the traffic. In 2008,...

News Update: Freezing Cold in Mongolia

It's freezing. Two days ago, I parked my car outside for 3 hours without starting it or heating it, and it turned into an ice box. Wouldn't start. I called the trusty 1950 and asked the operator to send someone over. A taxi drove up to the car after 5 minutes, and the driver spent the next 30 minutes doing his best to rescue my ice cube on wheels. Unfortunately, nothing worked. Even the good ole Mongolian method of grilling the engine bits and the spark plugs with a makeshift blowtorch failed to bring it back to life. After 20 mins standing outside, I could no longer feel my fingers and toes. It was and still is that cold. -36 degrees Celsius cold.

We are on the second of the nine nines, as Mongolians call it. These are the coldest 81 days of winter, that start around winter equinox. And until the first 4 or 5 nines are behind us, the weather doesn't look promising for cars, toes and fingers. The temperatures will, probably, get better after Tsagaan Sar, which is on the 14th of February this year, so far, though I'm fairly certain there will be disputes over the exact Tsagaan Sar date come February.

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